By the numbers: How to navigate the autos pricing puzzle
When purchasing a car you’re bombarded with a lot of information and terminology. To get the best deal, though, you need to know how all the pieces fit together, especially when it comes to auto pricing. Following is a rundown of common pricing terms and why you should be familiar with them.
WHAT YOU SEE ON THE WINDOW STICKER
Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price (MSRP). The MSRP is the vehicle’s published retail (base) price, without options, destination charge, or other fees. Because it’s “suggested,” dealers are free to sell the car at either a higher or lower amount.
Optional equipment. These are the features and/or packages you pay extra for. Sometimes there are no-charge options; these are usually limited to paint, interior, and transmission choices. Keep in mind that the price of options can be negotiated.
Destination charge. This fee covers the cost of delivering the vehicle
from the factory to the dealership. This non-negotiable fee is usually the
same cost for all models within a brand, and doesn’t depend on the actual
shipping distance.
Market adjustments. Sometimes you will see a line on the window sticker
or a separate sticker that adds an additional charge to the vehicle’s price.
This is a fee the dealer tacks on, usually to cars that are in high demand,
in an effort to make additional profit. You can try to negotiate this figure,
but if the vehicle is selling well the dealer won’t have much incentive
to work with you.
Total price or “sticker price.” This is the total retail price for
the vehicle, including the MSRP, options, destination charge, and any market
adjustments. Typically a salesperson will try to sell the vehicle for as
close to this price as possible, or perhaps offer you a token discount or
manufacturer discounts. To get the best price, however, it’s better to negotiate
up from the dealer’s true cost, described below, rather than negotiate down
from the sticker price.
WHAT YOU DON’T SEE ON THE WINDOW STICKER
Dealer invoice price. This is the price printed on the dealer’s invoice
from the manufacturer. However, this isn’t necessarily what the dealer actually
paid for the vehicle. There are often behind-the-scenes bonuses, such as
dealer incentives or a holdback, that give the dealer more profit margin.
Looking beyond the dealer invoice price can sometimes save you hundreds
of dollars.
Rebate. A rebate is a direct-to-buyer incentive from the manufacturer. Since it comes from the automaker, disregard it when negotiating with the dealership. You will get the same rebate no matter what price you pay for the vehicle.
Dealer incentives. This is money that the manufacturer pays the dealer
for selling certain, usually slow-selling, models. This money can be passed
on to the buyer in the form of a price reduction, or kept as added dealer
profit. This is how a dealer can afford to sell a vehicle for “dealer cost”
or below. These programs come and go quickly and aren’t announced to the
public. Buyers can learn about dealer incentives on some auto-pricing Web
sites or through
Consumer Reports’ New Car Price Reports (available via
ConsumerReports.org).
Holdback. Most manufacturers offer dealers a percentage of the MSRP,
or a percentage of the invoice price, as a refund upon sale of the vehicle.
The typical holdback is 2 to 3 percent, meaning a dealer can still make
a profit on a vehicle sold for "invoice," even without dealer incentives.
Holdback information can be hard to find, although it is listed in
Consumer
Reports’ New Car Price Reports.
The dealer’s true cost. This is the dealer invoice price, minus any incentives and the holdback. To get the lowest price, begin your negotiations with a starting price that is about 4 to 8 percent over the dealer’s true cost. You can get a close estimate of the dealer’s true cost with the CR Wholesale Price, which is included in the New Car Price Reports.
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Copyright © 2004-2008 Consumers Union of U.S., Inc.
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